April 12, 2026

Bragging rights to the largest cities by population in the world can depend on just how you define a city (city proper, urban area, metropolitan area, etc.) Regardless, Tokyo one of our upcoming ports is likely to top the list, with an estimated 37 million people in its metropolitan area, which includes Yokohama. Osaka, another port we will be visiting isn’t too far behind, at No. 11 and with 19 million people. These cities are on Honshu, Japan’s largest island with 80 percent of its population.

Today we visited Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, and specifically the port of Kochi. It was nice to have a more relaxed day before we visit those two other large Japanese cities. With just 322,000 people, Kochi is certainly a city, but much more manageable than Tokyo or Osaka.

Constructed 400 years ago atop Otakasa Hill, Kōchi Castle is the city’s most well-known landmark and offers commanding
views over the city. It is the only castle in the country with its castle tower still intact. According to historical records, it took about 1,200 people to build Kōchi Castle. It took the workers eleven years to complete, and they were paid two pounds of rice a day for their efforts.

The Harimaya-bashi Bridge, made famous in Japan by a romantic song about the ill-fated lover of a 19^th-century monk stands out because of its rich red color. According to legend, a temple priest and a young maiden were forbidden to see one another so they met secretly at this small red bridge. One day, the priest was seen buying a comb for his love. When their secret was discovered, they were both banished from the city. Today, some young men will propose on the bridge offering unending and unconditional love to their fiancé.

As an aside, on the way walking to the castle we passed an early morning fruit/vegetable market, and I saw the biggest daikon radish I have ever seen. Daikon radishes are used to prepare a traditional Japanese pickle dish called Takuan. Daikons are hung outside for 1-3 weeks where they become softer which concentrates flavor and helps fermentation. Traditional takuan may age for several months and the color gradually turns yellow. If you’ve eaten in a Japanese restaurant, you had most likely been served takuan in a Bento Box. They are sweet and salty and slightly tangy. Tried them sometime!