April 9, 2026

Unique to Jeju Island women divers Haenyeo (해녀), meaning “sea women” are one of the most unique and respected cultural traditions in Korea. Haenyeo are free divers, they dive without oxygen tanks to depths of 65 feet holding their breath up to 3 minutes at a time. Although a long-standing tradition, because many of the younger generation are choosing different careers most of the Haenyeo are 70-80 years old.

Chongae’s brother, Jongman, and sister-in-law, Myonghye, flew in a few days early from Seoul to join us on this adventure. After picking us up at the airport, we went back to their hotel close to Seongsan IIchulbong, a prime spot to see Haenyeo. A statue in front of the hotel depicted the unique Taewak (태왁) the orange float and Mangsari (망사리) the net basket Haenyeo carry on their backs. The taewak and mangsari float above where they drop their catch into the net and then dive again. There is no need to carry weight underwater which allows the Haenyeo to work all day until their nets are full of abalone, sea urchins and octopus.

Unfortunately, our plans were not meant to be as the video below shows.

A quick explanation as to how Haenyeo, considered among the toughest divers in the world, continue to dive into their 80’s. After decades of free diving, their heart rate slows, bradycardia, allowing blood to be redirected to brain and vital organs where oxygen use becomes extremely efficient allowing them to tolerate higher CO₂ levels. Their spleens contracts during dives releasing extra oxygen-rich red blood cells. It’s like a natural oxygen boost during each dive! Strong vasoconstriction, keeping heat in core, creates better tolerance to cold exposure with less heat loss over time. They become similar to endurance athletes, but in water. Basically, they become highly efficient survival machines underwater. Pretty amazing!

Well, with a change of plans we did what most families would do, go get something to eat! Being in one of the best fresh fish destinations in the world we went to the famous Seogwipo Olle market.

You’ve heard of “farm to plate” this was “fish to mouth”. Make your selection, have it cooked to your liking, and choose from the multiple types of seaweed to garnish!

After a wonderful day together, we had to return to the port where Jongmin and Myonghye walked to the end of the pier so Chongae could get a last long-distance photo of them before we departed.

All of Chongae’s family live in South Korea. She was the only one to come to the United States.

As we departed, I captured this pensive photo of Chongae on our balcony.

It is always nice to go home.

It is not always easy to leave.

Thanks for traveling with us.