May 30, 2025

How did we end up back in a French possession and had we known we wouldn’t have spent all those last Euros in the Netherlands!

Saint Pierre is a self-governing territorial overseas collectivity of France. France and Britian, as they did in many parts of the world fought over this area for years. Under the terms of the Treaty of Paris, which put an end to the Seven Years War, France ceded all its North American possessions to Britain, though the British granted fishing rights to French fishermen along the Newfoundland coast, and as part of that arrangement returned Saint Pierre to France’s control. I’m not so sure that France is happy the British did.

St. Pierre suffered severely as a result of unprofitable fisheries, and large numbers of this French speaking territory emigrated to Nova Scotia and Quebec. The military draft imposed on all male inhabitants of conscript age after the beginning of World War I crippled the fisheries, as their catch could not be processed by the older men or the women and children. The increase in the adoption of steam trawlers in the fisheries also contributed to the reduction in employment.

St. Pierre did find however a way to stimulate the economy: With the institution of Prohibition in the United States the smuggling of whisky from Canada held up the economy for a while. The end of Prohibition in 1933 plunged St. Pierre once more into economic depression.

Currently, St. Pierre is heavily subsidized by France, which benefits the standard of living. The government hopes an expansion of tourism, we were the first ship to visit this year, will boost economic prospects, and test drilling for oil may pave the way for development of the energy sector.

Ile Aux Marins (translated: Sailors Island) is a small island just off the coast of Saint Pierre, reached by a ten-minute ferry ride. It is a fascinating place, representative of so many small settlements along the Atlantic coast where early 20th-century life centered on cod fishing, faith, harsh weather, and maritime heritage. It has been abandoned since 1965 but many of the original houses remain.  

Maison Morel was a fisherman’s house. The gravel in front of the house was used to dry cod. Small boys would lay the fish on the gravel to dry. These boys were called Graviers. Hence the name of the ferry: Les P’tits Graviers.

The schoolhouse was used up to 1965. The chalkboard in the classroom was set up for the last day of the school year before its closing.

The church cemetery serves as another reminder of the trials of war. Of the 400 who served in the French military during World War I (1914–1918), 25% of the young men died.

Visiting Ile Aux Marins is taking a step back in time where you can’t help but wonder what life was like for its inhabitants. With each step you hear an echo from the past reminding you of days gone by. It was fitting as we begin to end this portion of our Hope for Today journey to reflect on each of our journeys in life. I couldn’t help but envision young boys on their way to school passing the graves of family members who had died in service to their country. And after school running home to help their dads begin the process of drying that day’s catch of cod. Off the shoreline stood the shipwrecked Transpacific reminding them of the dangers of the sea at their front door. Yet these young boys could take strength from the French moto Fluctuat Nec Megitur proudly displayed on the Maison Morel House. The translation from French: “Although you may be rocked by waves, your heart does not sink.” And of course, the church, the largest building on the island where you put on your “church clothes” on Sunday where every family gathered to pray, fellowship and enjoy the covered dish after the church service. Where you hoped your mom brought her best dish of smoked cod for potluck and dauphinoise, a special treat of layered potatoes and cream, flavored with nutmeg and thyme, and gratineed until crisp.

As the day closed fog began to emerge with the intent of covering the landscape for the day.

Yet tomorrow the sun will rise again exposing the footprint of what once was. A valuable lesson for all of us. Although our days on this earth will end, we all leave footprints behind that others will follow.

Thanks for traveling with us.

Thirdmill Update: “Currently, about 20 members our church are participating in Thirdmill studies. We are divided into four small groups to go through the courses. In the group I am leading, we have seven members, and we have completed all the courses required for the Certificate in Discipleship. We are now starting the Certificate in Ministry track. Everyone has grown and renewed their understanding of basic theological concepts and frameworks. We are very grateful for your hard work and dedication.”
Pastor Sun, Winnipeg Chinese Bible Church