April 13, 2025

Today, we are in the capital city of Cape Verde, Santiago. If you recall, these islands had no population until conquered by the Portuguese in the mid-15th century. This was a central depository for slaves being sent to South America and the United States and that dynamic is still evident in Cape Verde.

First, this is a poor country with the average income about $170.00 USD per month. The building of a home is a difficult process. Most families will only be able to build one floor, and it is not uncommon for five generations to live under one roof. Most are built of cinder block and left unpainted. Almost all are left unfinished, for once construction is completed, you are required to pay home taxes. Like most communities we have visited around the world the first building constructed is a church. This is not only for worship but to serve as a central meeting place for all residents. Birthdays, anniversaries and any necessary community meetings are all held in the local church.

As today is Palm Sunday we were able to observe a Palm Sunday procession. It seemed like the entire community took part in the celebration.

Although it was Sunday, it still appeared that there were chores to be done by the children. I am always impressed as we travel around the world how young children in developing nations readily take part in responsibilities to support their families. Although busy children will often give us the universal “thumbs up” sign to let us know that everything is ok.

Although primitive, there was also time for recreation. As there are few domesticated animals’ children have unusual pets. In Boca da Valeria, Brazil its sloths. In Cape Verde its monkeys.

We took a bus ride to the highest point on the island and took a long windy road to get there. The road was made from volcanic rock. Later, I was told that this road was built by African slaves under Portuguese rule. As I said, the brutality of slavery is still evident on Cape Verde. In this case, right under your feet.

Chongae always tries to find children to bless during our travels. In Cape Verde, the children were a little hesitate at first because Chongae was probably the only South Korean on the island. Maybe the first South Korean these boys had ever seen. I liked the inscription on the boy’s shirt: “There is no finish line.”

In spite of or perhaps because of its history of slavery since claiming its independence in 1975 Cape Verde has been a shining example of democracy. It has the freest press in Africa, a strong judiciary, and ranks highly in fighting corruption and in e-government readiness. Being an immigrant society, it has escaped much of the tribalism effects of the politics of other African nations. With no oil or exploitable minerals, it escaped the trap of petroleum that leads countries to corruption and lopsided development. Cape Verde has a stable multi-party democracy; in fact, it ranked 23rd among the world’s nations in the Freedom House Freedom Index. It is ranked # 1 in Africa and number 48 in the world in the freedom of press index. It is ranked higher than the United States, the United Kingdom and France.

We found this population of African, Portuguese and Berber to be extremely friendly and welcoming. It is a delightful mix of cultures. The easy going no hassle vibe charmed us. As we sail toward Morocco and leave Cape Verde, I thought this may be Western Africa, but the mix of cultures made us feel like this was Europe with soul!

Thanks for traveling with us.