February, 17, 2026

I knew very little about the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu other than it was located east of Australia and north of New Zealand. I knew that the CBS television series “Survivor” filmed here. Also, that bungee jumping was invented here; men climb
nearly 100 feet to handmade towers and launch themselves to the ground with 94-foot-long vines attached to their ankles! I was soon to discover that there was much more to this island nation other than those two facts.

First of all, an international survey in 2006 found the citizens of this nation to be the happiest, healthiest and most content on Earth. Much of that may have to do with very strong family connections. Vanuatu is one of the few islands in the South
Pacific where the ancient style of architecture is still part of daily life. When a young couple marries, the first home they build is a
traditional, round, thatched “case” (hut). Later, they may build a western-style home, but even then, they continue to use the thatched hut as their bedroom and for important family meetings. Music and singing are also part of many Vanuatu ceremonies, such as initiations, courting and mourning. Conch shells are often used as this young girl demonstrates.

In Vanuatu they are called Flèches Faîtières, they go by other names in other Melanesian communities.  Sometimes they are called tikis, although that is more Polynesian and sometime simply referred to as totem poles. They are symbolic of a proud history and are displayed throughout the city.

One of the things I had hoped to see in Vanuatu was Sand Writing but did not have time to go to the Museum of Vanuatu. Sand Writing is ephemeral; figures are written in the sand and then blow away with the wind or wash away in the tide.  Vanuatu is a language dense country with more than 130 vernaculars in a land with fewer than 400,000 inhabitants.  Sand drawing was both a way of communicating across language barriers and of imparting local stories or family histories to a new generation.  Experts use their fingertips to create motifs in coral sand or volcanic ash in a single continuous line based on a grid, sometimes laid out in the sand, sometimes not.  The lines carry the stories and wisdom of generations. Skilled practitioners have memorized up to 400 designs along with the stories that accompany them. 

American mathematician Marcia Ascher analyzed several of the designs in the 1980s and determined that they embodied some of the principles of advanced mathematical graph theory.  They are like Celtic designs in Europe and Tamil designs in South Asia and, according to Ascher, suggest an algorithmic kinship across indigenous cultures. And nowhere did I see symbolic tattoos as can be seen in Vanuatu.

Vanuatu also has a very good relationship with the United States. In December 2024 Port Vila suffered an earthquake that made the port inoperable.  The United States responded quickly, rushing in aid, disaster teams and communications, especially Starlink satellite equipment.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in the South Pacific visiting Raiatea, Moorea, Papeete, Apia, Suva and Dravuni Island. We now have a few days at sea before arriving in our first New Zealand port of call, Auckland.

Thanks for traveling with us.